home
Victorious Manual 2025
Victorious Manual 2025
This version dated 1st. Jan 2025 by Giles Williams replacing a May 2021 revision of the original manual from May 2000 is based on a draft approved after the 2020 AGM.
We are grateful for the contributions made to this manual by all members of Victorious’s syndicate.
Contents
-
Example Turnaround Sheet
25
-
Inventory
An inventory of everything aboard Victorious is taken periodically and can be found in a separate document.
-
Marina Information
Information about Victorious’s current berth is also in a separate document.
Introduction:
Welcome to Victorious.
Narrow boat Victorious was launched in the year 2000 as part of the Challenger group of shared boats. It’s been with several boat-share management groups, but is currently self-managed by its owners. Victorious is 60 feet (18.29m) long, 6 foot 10 inches (2.08m) in beam, and powered by a 43hp Nanni diesel engine.
Your boat is shared between up to thirteen groups of owners, twelve of which have a four week share, and one group which has a two week ‘half share’; this is the ‘Victorious syndicate’. We’re a varied bunch of couples, families and friends, who meet at least once a year for our annual AGM. Together we enjoy sharing the responsibility for managing and maintaining Victorious.
This manual should be a helpful guide to your time on board Victorious. It lists everything that is on the boat or part of it, and is a short guide to how everything works. It’s not complete, you will also be gaining knowledge of the boat and how it works through your holidays, and through your interactions with the rest of the owners.
If you are new to canal boating then I’m afraid you won’t find much advice in this manual. If you’re inexperienced then we suggest that you don’t plan too challenging a trip for your first time out. You should take your time, learn how to handle the boat and how to safely operate locks and bridges. Both the
RYA
and the
Canal & River Trust
publish canal boating handbooks, there are copies aboard, and these are a great guide for beginners. You should also consider the RYA Inland Waterways Helmsmanship course. And the other members of the syndicate will also be glad to offer their advice and help - you should have their names and phone numbers already!
Although the information here is quite dense, and sometimes daunting, the two main sections of this manual (
Maintaining and Running Victorious
and
Cleaning Victorious
) are arranged in a suggestion of the order of what needs to be done, so that you can simply work through them item by item.
In another folder on the boat you will find the manufacturer’s operating instructions for much of the equipment on board. There’s also a file containing copies of the “Turnaround Report” sheets - one of which must be completed at the end of every week aboard to let the syndicate know about any issues or faults that need addressing. You should also have a sheet that lists the services and contact numbers for the cleaners and engineers at Victorious’s current marina.
This year Victorious celebrates twenty years afloat, and some of the original share owners are still with us. We hope you’ll enjoy your time aboard as much as we all have.
For the Victorious syndicate, Paul Newton, Chair 2020 - 2024.
Victorious, from stem to stern.
Bows:
Bow fender (‘tipcat’ style) secured with three chains.
Tee cleat:
Forward line
Gas Locker:
LPG bottles (two or three)
LPG Spanner (on a bit of string)
LPG fittings
LPG Switchover/Regulator
Labels for current and reserve bottles.
Tunnel Lamp Support:
12V Horn
Tunnel Lamp
Demountable cratch with two window panes
Demountable vinyl cratch cover with two clear panels
Fore deck (
W
ell deck):
Gear oil reserv
oir
for bow thruster
Attachment point for anchor, chain and warp
Anchor, anchor chain and anchor warp
Bow thruster access hatch
Desmo mounting for small table
Water fill port and vent
Forward wooden lockable doors into saloon
Wooden box seat
Hose to fill water tank
Chimney cover (or chimney) for stove
Metal bucket for stove ash.
Roof:
Mushroom vents:
two forwards centre, two midships port, one each side of the rear hatch
Chimney (or chimney cover) for stove
A
erials:
One radio
aerial
forwards starboard, one
radio aerial
aft port
One demountable TV aerial.
Steel hoop at centre, midships:
Two centre lines
Steel door over the centre side-hatch doors
Steel supports for:
Boarding plank
Barge pole
Boat hook
Mop and Broom (external use)
Steel sliding rear hatch cover
Port gunwale:
Pump out port for toilet holding tank
Saloon:
Two windows (slide opening)
Desmo fittings for the table
Steps with storage area behind containing the water pump
Lockable, wooden doors out to foredeck
Starboard:
Wardrobe
Clock and Victorious Emblem
TV & DVD player
Storage with glassware,
first aid kit
, DVD’s and books
Magazine rack with manuals and paperwork
Large table / Bed section in wall support
230V socket, 12V 2 pin socket, 12V cigarette lighter style socket, USB socket
Port:
Solid fuel stove with storage in raised plinth
Storage for three Desmo legs
Settee, converts into double berth with large table
Under-settee storage with bedding
Dinette:
Two windows (sliding opening)
Seating with storage drawers and areas beneath
Table with Desmo fitting below
(seating and table convert into a double berth)
Thermostat control for central heating
Galley:
One window (hopper style)
Double-door side-hatch and steps
Side-hatch cover stored to one side
Additional galley work surface stored to one side
Microwave with shelf over
Drawers with cutlery, tools and cloths
Sink Unit and four burner hob
Under-sink storage cupboards with cooking utensils and small waste bin
Fridge
Oven and grill with shelf over
Inverter/Charger control
Connecting corridor:
Door into bathroom
Door into rear cabin
One window in corridor (hopper style)
Wardrobe
Bathroom:
Door into connecting corridor
One frosted window (hopper style)
Vanity sink with storage below
Bathroom cabinet
Drop-through toilet into holding tank:
Water valve and shut off valve for the toilet
Shower with shower drain pump switch
Small set of shelves
Rear Cabin:
Door into connecting corridor
Two windows (hopper style)
Double berth, extendable with storage underneath for:
Tool kit
Shore-line power cable
Vacuum cleaner
Shelf over the bed with radio and USB socket built in
Coat-hook on bedpost
Starboard:
Small shelf over radiator
Vanity with sink:
Mirror over
Towel ring
Storage underneath:
Wheel-valve (shut off) for radiators.
Small safe for valuables
Inspection hatch for cabin bilge
Port:
Wardrobe:
Clip for storing tiller arm
Storage for aft ‘tonneau’ cover
Central heating control panel
Electrical cupboard with various controls and key hooks:
(see separate diagrams)
Electrical inverter below
USB socket (with domestic circuit voltmeter) above
Steps, sliding hatch and doors out to enclosed deck
Enclosed rear deck:
Steel doors and hatchway into rear cabin
Boards over engine bay
Starboard:
Fold-down step to roof
Seat with tool locker below for:
Windlasses
Mooring gear (fenders, pins, chains, hooks, hammer)
Port:
Shore-line power connector
Hook to support:
Perry buoy (life ring)
Control column
(see separate diagram)
Steel doors to rear deck
Engine bay:
Engine and gearbox:
(see separate diagrams)
Weedhatch
Starboard:
Storage for engine consumables
Stern gland greaser
Port:
Battery box and isolation switches
Counter
deck:
Door to weed-hatch
Tiller swan-neck and rudder bearing
Aft line
Rear ‘button’ style fender attached with four chains
Starboard:
Aft-line dolly with fuel-tank vent
Port:
Diesel filling port
Aft-line dolly
Maintaining and running Victorious
There are a few maintenance tasks that every user of Victorious should perform, some are everyday checks if you are cruising, some are chores to be performed before turnaround, and some are ways of dealing with the most common sorts of problems.
Please read this short
section
on operating Victorious, and consult the check lists at regular intervals.
Victorious’s current engine is a 43hp Nanni diesel based on a Kubota industrial engine. This engine dates from 2001 when it replaced Victorious’s original engine, which I understand to have been an identical model. As an
ageing
engine, it requires a little care when operating.
-
On receiving Victorious from turnaround:
-
Read the latest turnaround reports in the folder for updates on any issues.
-
Check the gearbox oil level by unscrewing the brass nut on top of the gearbox marked with the small black dot shown, and removing and examining the gearbox dipstick. If the level is okay, replace the dipstick and nut and tighten it only finger-tight, so that any syndicate member can check this level.
-
If the gearbox oil level is below the bottom mark
, with a funnel add small amounts of engine oil (
15W40 multigrade
) through the hole for the dipstick until the level is correct. Report this action on the turnaround form.
-
If the gearbox oil level is above the top mark
, make a note and report this on the turnaround form. The engineer should deal with this at the next service.
-
Check the level of hydraulic fluid at the sight gauge in the large reservoir for the bow thruster on the starboard side of the engine bay.
-
If necessary, top up the hydraulic oil (
ISO-32 Hydraulic Oil
)
-
Examine the engine mounts for wear.
-
If the engine mounts are worn or loose
, note this in the turnaround sheet and contact the syndicate for advice.
-
Ensure the battery isolation switches are in the ‘ON’ position.
-
Switch on any services you need at the electrical control panel in the rear cabin.
-
Check the level of any water in the cabin bilge (below the inspection cover in the rear cabin wardrobe.)
-
If there is more than a few
millimetres
of water
, this will need to be removed with a hand or battery pump, or with a sponge and bucket. Please report this on the turnaround form.
-
Check the level of the gear oil for the bow thruster at the reservoir bottle in the well deck. The bottle should be full to between the minimum (MIN) level and the metal strap.
-
If necessary, top up the gear oil (
EP-90 Hypoid Gear Oil
)
-
If you are intending to cruise, disconnect and stow the shoreline power supply cable on board.
-
Daily checks and tasks before running the engine:
-
Check the stern gland for water ingress. Before cruising there should be no more than one drop of water per minute entering the bilges through the stern gland.
-
If more water is entering from the stern gland
, it may need adjusting. This will require spanners or wrenches.
Loosen any locking nuts and tighten both nuts holding the stern gland packing in place by
just one quarter turn
. Then retighten the locking nuts. Note this adjustment on the turnaround sheet.
-
If the nuts cannot be tightened any further,
then the stern gland will need repacking at the next service. Note this on the turnaround sheet.
-
Grease the stern gland by turning the handle on the greaser clockwise until some resistance is felt, and then making a further quarter turn.
-
If the handle is turned all the way down, and will turn no further
, you will need to refill the greaser with grease:
Wipe the barrel and handle of the greaser clean of any grease with a paper towel or blue roll.
Unscrew the whole barrel from its mounting on the bulkhead, a rubber glove will help you grip the barrel.
Take the lid off a tub of
Morris K99 grease
and place the tub on a non-slip surface.
Place the barrel’s open end against the grease in the top of the container, and with a gentle pressure into the grease, wind the handle back up, drawing the grease into the barrel. There is usually a plastic ring that will help guide the grease into the barrel inside the tub.
When the handle is wound all the way up remove the barrel from the tub of grease and wipe it clean. Then screw the barrel of the greaser back into its place on the bulkhead.
Finally, wipe any excess grease from the barrel, handle and bulkhead.
-
Check the engine oil level by removing the dipstick from the engine, wiping it, pushing it all the way back into the engine, then removing it and reading the level. If the oil is a normal colour (between golden and black depending on when it was last changed), and is between the marks on the dipstick, replace the dipstick in the engine and proceed.
-
If the oil looks at all ‘milky’
, stop and contact an engineer ASAP.
-
If the oil is below the bottom mark
, add a small amount (about half a cup) of engine oil (
15W40 multigrade
) at the oil filler cap. Then read the oil level again, and repeat this until the oil is between the marks.
If you have to add oil more than one day in a row, or if oil is appearing on the engine or in the bilge, contact an engineer.
-
If the oil is above the top mark
, you should remove some oil from the engine.
Remove the hexagonal cap from the oil sump pump, and the cap from the oil filler and keep them safe.
Into a disposable container (an old drinks bottle, or empty oil bottle), pump out engine oil until the oil level is correct.
Replace both the cap for the oil sump pump and cap for the oil filler.
-
Examine the coolant level in the expansion tank on the engine bay bulkhead. The coolant level should be between the minimum and maximum marks on the tank.
-
If the coolant level is below the bottom mark
, add coolant to the expansion tank. Coolant is a 50/50 mix of
blue glycol antifreeze
and clean water (ideally, warm water from a boiled kettle.) Coolant is often kept ready-mixed among the engine consumables, if there is none, then you will have to mix it yourself.
-
If the coolant level is above the top mark
, excess coolant may overflow and contaminate the bilges. You can drain the expansion tank into a disposable container by removing the hose and hose clamps below the tank, but be sure to reattach them before running.
-
Examine the belt for the alternator and water pump at the forward end of the engine. It shouldn’t look frayed, and there should be no more than
1 cm
of movement if you push a finger at the longest part of the belt.
-
If the belt is badly worn or broken
, it must be replaced before you proceed.
-
If the belt is loose or noisy
, it needs to be adjusted.
Adjusting or replacing the belt requires a little familiarity with the task. If you are at all unsure, contact the syndicate or an engineer for help before proceeding.
-
Clear any water in the bilges either side of the engine and around the stern gland, by running the bilge pump until water stops leaving the bilge. Please leave the bilge pump switch in the ‘automatic’ position.
-
If the water in the bilge is oily
, you will have to remove the bilge pump hose from where it connects to the outflow through the hull, and run the pumped bilge into a large container suitable for the disposal of contaminated fluids. Reconnect the hose afterwards.
Be sure to clean the bilge of any contamination with white, oil-absorbent pads, or with disposable nappies.
-
Attach the tiller arm to the swan neck with the tiller pin.
-
Put the gearbox into neutral
: put
the
control lever
to
the 12
o'clock, idle position, pull
the control lever base outward from the console (
towards starboard
), and then
move
the lever
forward to
the
2 o’clock position.
-
Insert, then turn the ignition key one step to the ‘run’ position.
-
Check the battery indicator shows 12V or more, a beeping sound should be heard.
-
Advance the key another step and hold it in position while the glow plugs warm up, indicated by a light
to
the left of the key. You should warm the glow plugs
for no more than five to
ten
seconds
.
-
Advance and hold the key one more step to engage the starter. The engine should start after a few seconds. If it doesn’t then return the key to the ‘stopped’ position and wait at least a minute before warming the glow plugs again. If the engine will not start after five attempts, you will need to contact an engineer.
-
Allow the key to return to the ‘run’ position, do not turn it back to the ‘stopped’ position as this will disconnect the alternator and stop the batteries from charging; running in this position may also damage the alternator.
Never remove the ignition key while the engine is running.
-
Ease the throttle lever back towards 12 o’clock and allow the lever to move back in (towards port), so that the engine is idling and the next time you advance the throttle lever the engine will be in gear.
-
Allow the engine to warm up for a few minutes before moving off.
-
Starting with the throttle lever at the 12 o’clock, idle position.
-
Move the throttle lever forwards until forward gear engages.
-
Move the throttle lever to the 12 o’clock, idle position.
-
Pause for a breath.
-
Move the throttle lever backwards until the reverse gear engages.
-
When you wish to resume forward gear:
-
Move the throttle lever to the 12 o’clock, idle position.
-
Pause for a breath.
-
Move the throttle lever forwards until forward gear engages.
-
Victorious’s bow thruster is hydraulic and can be operated to move the bows to the port and starboard with the red and green arrow buttons on the control panel.
-
The bow thruster provides excellent control when reversing slowly and when manoeuvring at low speed in close quarters.
-
You should release the thruster button and pause for a breath before changing the thruster direction to allow the thruster propeller to ‘spin down’ before reversing its direction.
-
The bow thruster will not burn out if operated continuously, but for good form do not use it for longer than a minute at a time.
-
If fighting wind, or a current, then extra power can be sent to the bow thruster by increasing the engine speed while in neutral. Pull the throttle lever out (to starboard) to disengage the gearbox, and push it forward to increase engine speed. Use this extra power sparingly, and only when necessary.
-
Move the throttle lever to the 12 o’clock, idle position, in neutral.
-
Press and hold the ‘stop’ button until the engine stops. If the engine does not stop after a few seconds, follow the procedure below.
-
Once the engine has stopped, release the ‘stop’ button
,
turn the ignition key to the ‘stopped’ position, and remove it.
-
If the engine will not stop with the stop button:
-
Keep the ignition key in the ‘run’ position.
-
Clear the deck of any people and raise the engine covers.
-
Carefully locate the small engine stop lever on the starboard side of the engine, halfway down, near the oil pump-out lever, between the throttle cable connection and the engine-stop solenoid.
-
Move the lever
forwards
and hold it there, this will safely cut off the fuel supply to the engine until the engine stops. You can then release
the
lever. Replace the engine covers.
-
Turn the ignition key back to the ‘stopped’ position and remove it.
-
Report this fault immediately. If you feel assured that you can stop the engine in this way then you may return Victorious to base, otherwise stay where you are and contact an engineer.
-
Daily tasks after running the engine:
-
Remove and stow the tiller arm and tiller pin.
-
Grease the stern gland as
you did before cruising
.
Checks and tasks at turnaround (leaving the boat):
-
Ensure the toilet tank is pumped out, rinsed, and empty. Please add
green (organic)
chemical toilet fluid through the pump out port, not the toilet.
-
Refill the diesel fuel tank.
-
Replace any empty gas cylinders.
-
Moor the boat securely with the forward and aft lines, using fenders to protect the sides.
-
Ensure the shoreline power supply cable is connected according to the marina’s instructions, and that you have mains power. Switch the inverter to
‘
charger only.
’
-
Coil the centre lines on the roof.
-
Ensure the boat is tidy and cleaned inside and outside.
(See the section on cleaning.)
-
Refill the domestic water tank.
-
Ensure the front cratch is mounted and the cratch cover in place.
-
Check that the propeller is clear of any weeds or debris:
-
Stop the engine, if it's running,
and place the ignition keys in your pocket.
-
Lift the weedhatch cover door.
-
Loosen the weedhatch securing bar, then remove it from its hoops. Place it safely to one side.
-
Lift the weedhatch cover out of the weedhatch, take care, it is quite heavy. Place it safely to one side.
-
Carefully examine the propeller and prop shaft where it exits the hull, remove any weeds and debris from around the propellor and shaft. You may wish to use pond gloves or sleeved chemical gloves. Debris that can’t be easily removed should be cut away with shears or a serrated knife.
-
Dispose of any rubbish or weeds from the weedhatch thoughtfully.
-
Replace the weedhatch cover and tighten the securing bar.
-
Start the engine, and while tied up, run the engine in forward and reverse to check that the weedhatch cover does not leak. If any water bubbles through then stop the engine,
pocket the keys
, and reseat the weedhatch cover and retighten the securing bar. Then test it again until it does not leak.
-
Complete the turnaround form. Copies should be sent to the Treasurer and Technical Officer
.
-
Receipts (for gas, electricity, toilet chemicals etc.) should be sent to the Treasurer.
-
Contact the next syndicate member to let them know you are leaving the boat.
-
Switch off services at the electrical control box in the rear cabin.
-
Secure the tool box on the rear deck with the padlock.
-
Lock the front doors.
-
Secure the side hatch and door with its bolts.
-
Ensure you have taken all your personal items from the boat.
-
Ensure the boat’s ignition keys and other keys are safely sto
w
ed in the electrical control box in the rear cabin.
-
If the boat is to be left empty for a week or more, please
mount
the rear ‘tonneau’ cover in place.
-
Turn the central heating control dial clockwise to the 0° position.
-
Secure the rear cabin doors with the padlock.
Possible running problems and their solutions:
-
No forward motion but the engine is okay, with muddy water around the boat, or the sound of a collision.
-
You have most likely gone aground. Try to reverse smartly off.
If that fails, use the barge pole to push the stern of the boat into deeper water and then try to reverse off.
Moving people toward the stern or onto the bank may allow the boat to refloat, sometimes gently rocking the boat from side to side may also help while reversing.
-
Lack of forward speed and steering authority, possibly with a vibration at the tiller
and frothing around the prop,
possibly with the engine overheating.
-
It is quite likely the prop is fouled. Stop the engine and as best you can (using the barge pole, if necessary) come to the bankside. Switch off the engine. Check the propeller for weed and debris as above.
-
Engine will not increase speed above tickover, possibly with a loose feeling throttle lever.
-
This is quite likely due to a failed or disconnected throttle cable. Continue at tickover until you can moor up, then call an engineer.
-
Engine will not engage gear, possibly with reverse gear still working.
-
There may be a lack of gearbox oil. Come to the bankside. Switch off the engine and check the gearbox oil level. Look for debris in the oil.
-
If gearbox oil level is fine but there are metal particles in the oil, or the oil is milky, the gearbox may have broken. Call an engineer.
-
If the gearbox oil is okay and gear still won’t engage then the gear cable may have failed or become disconnected. Call an engineer.
-
Engine alert warning sounds with battery warning light on.
-
Pull over. Stop the engine and check the alternator belt as above. If the belt is fine, or you cannot adjust or replace it, call an engineer.
-
Engine alert warning sounds with oil warning light on.
-
Pull over. Stop the engine and allow it to cool for 10 minutes, then check the engine oil level. If the oil level is okay and the engine alarm still sounds when running, call an engineer.
-
Engine alert warning sounds with temperature warning light on.
-
Pull over. Stop the engine and allow it to cool for 30 minutes, then carefully check the coolant level. If it is okay and the engine still overheats, call an engineer.
Solar Panels and LiFePo4 Batteries
Three 215W solar panels have recently been installed (December 2024) along with a Victron MPPT controller, and two
Ecotree
LiFePo4 150AH domestic batteries.
These replace a bank of four 100AH Lead Acid domestic batteries that have a typical life of three years with the use that the syndicate makes of them.
Most users should not notice any difference, except that the batteries should last a bit longer without charging, and that the batteries have about twice the expected lifespan of the Lead Acid type. During summer months the solar panels should keep the batteries topped up.
At turnaround please wipe the solar panels with a damp cloth to avoid any build up of grime.
Advanced Use and Information:
The solar panels are on adjustable brackets, you can carefully raise, lower and adjust the angle of the panels by supporting the panel and carefully loosening the knobs at each end and sliding them within the bracket.
Angling the solar panels towards the sun increases the amount of electricity generated.
Bluetooth Mobile Phone Apps:
The Victron MPPT controller (in the bedroom wardrobe) can be read and controlled by the “Victron Connect” mobile phone app that connects to it via Bluetooth. Please use this for information only and do not change any of the current settings. You will need the PIN number printed on a sticker on the MPPT controller to connect.
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/victronconnect/id943840744
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.victronenergy.victronconnect
The batteries can each be examined using the “XiaoXiangElectric” mobile phone app that connects to them via Bluetooth. Look for
VictoriousBatt1
and
VictoriousBatt2
.
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xiaoxiangelectric/id1576622653
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jiabaida.little_elephant
Using Victorious in Winter
(adapted from BCBM notes)
During Winter there may be a few extra things to do while on board and at turnaround.
On board
Please be prudent in your use of electrical power and only use high power items like the vacuum cleaner, microwave, and devices like kettles, toasters, electric grills or heaters while the shore power is connected or the engine is running with the inverter on.
Please ensure
daily
that the Central Heating expansion tank has sufficient coolant mix.
Do not allow the batteries to run low. If your cruising day is shorter than six hours, and you are away from shore power, please run the engine at about 1200 to 1500 rpm for as many hours as will make up the difference. You should pull the control lever outwards to disengage the drive while doing this, but please make sure the key is in the ignition and turned to the first position to ensure that the alternator functions properly and the batteries charge.
Do not run the engine in gear while moored
- this
idea (once
relevant to older diesel engines
)
is no longer considered good advice and will be a breach of our licence terms and conditions.
Turn off any unused circuits at the electrical control board whenever possible, especially when leaving the boat.
Ice
Please do not cruise through thick ice. Ice thicker than 10mm (three eighths of an inch) will hinder your ability to turn the boat and will cause wear to the paintwork. If long periods of sub-zero temperatures are expected, it may be best to stay in the marina, connected to shore power.
Frozen conditions will also affect the effectiveness of the propane supply, and may even freeze the water taps from which Victorious is topped up.
Winter stoppages
Please check your route ahead of time as there may be Winter closures of locks and facilities for maintenance.
Safety
Please remember to be extra careful about slippery surfaces in the Winter. It is always safer to move though the boat rather than along the gunwales or the roof. Lock sides and lock gate crossings will be treacherous, move slowly, and always use the handrails.
If you fall into icy water the cold shock will make it difficult to do much for the first few seconds. You will then have only a few minutes to rescue yourself before the cold robs your muscles of any strength. It is a good idea if you are alone on deck in Winter to wear a well-fitting lifejacket or buoyancy aid.
Before Turnaround
Contact the next owners and determine when (and if) they will arrive at the boat. If there is less than a day where the boat is empty then nothing out of the ordinary needs to be done.
If the boat is being left empty for more than a day, please mount the stern ‘tonneau’ cover to protect the engine from the elements.
At Turnaround
If the boat is to be left empty overnight, or for several nights when frost is expected, it will be necessary to arrange for the boat to be heated to avoid pipes becoming frozen. Please make sure that the shore power is connected and has at least £20 of credit.
When leaving the boat make sure that the central heating thermostat is set somewhere between 0° and 5°. This helps keep the batteries healthy and stops pipes from freezing.
Central Heating & Hot Water
Victorious’s hot water and central heating system revolves around the Calorifier which is essentially an insulated hot water storage tank under the bed at the back of the boat.
The calorifier can use two sources of heat: the engine when it is running, and the Webasto diesel-powered heater. Either can heat a tank of water in about 30 minutes.
(An unserviceable 230V immersion heater element has been disconnected since 2024.)
The central heating system and the engine cooling system use the same fifty-fifty mix of blue antifreeze (ethylene glycol) and water, which needs to be regularly topped up to the marked levels. The engine coolant expansion tank is in the engine bay on the bulkhead on the port side and the central heating coolant expansion tank is in the tool locker at the stern on the starboard side.
There is a cut-off valve for the radiators under the vanity unit in the rear cabin. This shuts off all the radiators except the bathroom radiator - which is required to shed any excess heat from the system.
The Webasto heater is unsophisticated and is either ON and supplying heat and circulating it through the calorifier and radiators, or OFF.
A thermostat has been added to provide more control, as well as being used to turn the heating on or off manually, it can switch on the Webasto heater when the temperature falls below the chosen setting.
To switch on
, turn the gauge anti-clockwise until you hear the switch ‘click’ on.
To switch off
, turn the gauge clockwise to zero or until you hear the switch ‘click’ off.
Bedding and towels aboard Victorious
Victorious’s fixed bed can be extended using the pull-out sections of the bed above the cupboards below the mattress, and allowing the bolster to take up the space between the mattress and the outside wall.
Aboard are enough pillows and duvets for each of the three sleeping areas: the main bedroom, the dinette make-up bed, and the saloon make-up bed.
These are stored in vacuum bags to prevent them from getting damp, and to ensure that they do not take up too much room. Please seal them in the vacuum bags and squish or vacuum or pump out as much air as possible before returning to storage.
Cover the rear bedroom mattress and bolster with the supplied bed cover when you leave the boat.
The duvets are stored under the dinette seat closest to the galley.
The pillows are stored under the dinette seat closest to the saloon.
Please bring your own sheets and duvet and pillow covers with you to protect these pillows and duvets if you use them. If any pillows or duvets are soiled during your time aboard please dispose of them and replace them with new items.
Please also bring your own towels with you (including tea towels), the only towels aboard are those left behind by other owners and may be found in the
Lost & Found
storage area below the saloon seating closest to the stove.
There are also some folding stools and seats in the storage area below the saloon seating.
Please keep the drawers and wardrobes free from any personal clutter, remember that this is a shared space and others might not have the same needs or ideas about decor as yourself.
Cleaning Victorious
When leaving Victorious on the last day of your stay it must be cleaned so that it is ready for use by the next syndicate member.
There are two options available:
-
Use the services of a local cleaner.
If you have had pets on board then you should engage a cleaner to do a comprehensive interior ‘pet-clean’.
You should arrange this in advance of returning the boat, before you take over at turnaround. Please make sure the cleaning is done before the time you say the boat will be available for the next syndicate member.
The contact details and prices for cleaning vary from marina to marina, so please consult the
marina services
section for more details.
-
Clean the boat yourselves.
Recommended cleaning procedures:
Cleaning the interior and exterior of the boat should take no more than a couple of hours if tackled by two or more people.
This section was previously organised into the separate areas of the boat. Now it is organised in an approximate order of operations: washing up, tidying, dusting, vacuuming and wiping, from bow to stern.
-
Interior Cleaning:
-
Wash, dry and put away any cutlery, crockery, cooking implements, glasses and containers you have used during your stay.
Be sure to clean the microwave dish and oven grill pan.
-
Tidy the boat:
-
Empty any ashes from the stove and clean it with a soft cloth.
-
Tidy away the crockery, cutlery, glasses etc.
-
Tidy any books, DVD’s etc into the saloon storage.
-
Store any bedding used in the relevant storage areas, in the plastic bags provided.
-
Demount and stow the saloon table, the small table and their legs.
-
Mount the dinette table on its support and leg.
-
Throughout the boat, remove any personal items from all of the storage areas.
-
Ensure all the storage areas are tidy, and clean them if necessary.
-
Empty and wipe clean the fridge, turn it off and wedge the door open.
-
Empty and wipe the kitchen pedal bin. Replace the liner.
-
Empty and wipe the bathroom pedal bin. Replace the liner.
-
Empty the bathroom cabinet, and remove any toiletries from the shower.
-
Push in the rear cabin bed slide, and place the throw-over bed cover over the mattress and mattress extension.
-
Remove dust, dirt and grime:
-
Wipe the area around the stove with a damp cloth.
-
Use a duster on the light fittings throughout the boat.
-
Use a duster on the radiators and skirting boards throughout the boat.
-
Dust and clean the fruit bowl and place it on the dining table.
-
Use a damp cloth or fabric cleaner to remove any marks on the upholstery.
-
Remove any marks on the ‘Novasuede’ wall covering using the advice below.
-
Clean the oven and the hob.
-
Wipe clean the tiled areas of the kitchen.
-
Clean the kitchen sink.
-
Clean the bathroom sink and taps.
-
Dust the bathroom shelves.
-
Clean the rear cabin sink and taps.
-
Vacuum and clean the floor:
-
Vacuum the saloon, dinette, connecting corridor and the rear cabin floors.
-
Vacuum inside the rear cabin wardrobe.
-
Immediately empty the contents of the vacuum cleaner outside the boat into a plastic bag for disposal, and stow the vacuum cleaner in the rear cabin wardrobe.
-
Use cleaning fluid, and a wipe, cloth or mop to
clean the
kitchen
floor
, bathroom floor, and the area below the rear cabin steps.
-
Wipe surfaces clean:
-
Polish the shelves and wooden surfaces including the tables in the saloon and dinette area.
-
Polish the shelves and wooden surfaces in the rear cabin.
-
Wipe clean the shelf above the oven.
-
Wipe clean the interior of the microwave oven.
-
Use an antibacterial cleaner to wipe the kitchen surfaces.
-
Clean the toilet and
surrounds
with warm soapy water.
Do NOT use bleach or toilet blue in the toilet bowl.
-
Use a shower cleaner or warm soapy water to wipe clean the interior of the shower and the shower door.
-
Pump out any remaining water in the shower compartment, and wipe the shower tray clean of any debris.
-
Polish the bathroom mirror, and the mirror above the rear cabin vanity.
-
Exterior Cleaning:
-
Ensure all tools are put away in the tool storage or inside the boat.
-
Close all windows and ensure the front cratch cover is in place.
-
The quickest and most effective way to clean the outside roof and sides is with two buckets of water, one containing warm soapy water and the other cold clean water. Using a cloth or sponge soaked in the warm soapy water, wash the external paintwork, and then rinse this area with a second cloth or sponge, which has been soaked and wrung out in the cold water. The front well deck, the rear semi-trad area and rear counter area can be washed in the same way. A mop should be used for the floor areas.
-
Please wipe any marks from the chromework and the tiller arm.
-
Please polish any brasswork, including the roof side step, the water and pump-out covers, the diesel filler cap, the diesel tank vent and the chimney bands.
-
Optionally: Rub the brass slides of the rear hatch with candle wax or beeswax to lubricate them.
-
Use a spray window cleaning fluid to clean the windows, inside and out.
-
Coil the centre ropes and the ends of the mooring lines neatly.
-
Please wipe down the solar panels with a damp cloth.
-
If you are leaving the boat empty for a while, please put the rear ‘tonneau’ cover in place.
-
Cleaning Aids and Materials:
Although a limited supply of cleaning material may be left on the boat, you may wish to bring with you your own cleaning ‘kit’, or purchase them during your stay.
-
Window cleaning spray with soft cloths
-
Furniture spray polish with dusters
-
Cream cleaner for sinks and wash basins
-
1001 or stardrops furniture cleaner
-
Metal Polish (Brasso and/or Bar Keepers Friend)
-
Tile/Shower Cleaner
Example Turnaround Sheet
Turnaround Checklist
Before leaving Victorious
-
Contact the next person due to be on board and let them know when you’ll be leaving.
-
Refuel, pump-out, and clean the boat. Place all bedding back into storage.
-
Complete the ‘Turnaround Sheet.’
-
Make sure the fridge is empty, switched off, and the fridge door propped open.
-
Switch off all other internal electrics.
-
Check the level of the central heating coolant expansion tank, and top it up if necessary.
-
Turn the central heating control clockwise to between 0° and 5°.
-
Make sure the electric hook-up is connected (and working) and that the inverter is switched to ‘Charger Only.’
-
Ensure you have taken all your personal belongings off the boat.
-
If there’s no-one coming on board within a day, please mount the rear ‘tonneau’ cover.
-
Lock the boat’s stern hatch and tool locker using the combination padlocks provided.
On joining Victorious
-
Demount the ‘tonneau’ cover, and unlock the stern hatch.
-
Turn on any internal electrical systems required.
-
Check the level of the central heating coolant expansion tank, and top it up if necessary.
-
Rotate the central heating control anti-clockwise to turn it on, if it is required.
-
Read the previous users’ Turnaround Sheets.
-
Unpack any bedding required from the storage areas.
-
Check the engine,
as per the maintenance section.